(The Fashion of The Future?), by Sam Moore



What is next for western fashion?

Western fashion has seen it all, hasn’t it? From the first rebellions of the teddy boys in the 50s to the peaceful, flower-bedecked hippies of the 60s the colorful anarchist-screaming punks of the 70s; the androgyny of the New Romantics in the 80’s and the gangster rappers of the 90’s; the goths and emos still walking our streets today.

What comes next? Emo’s looking old, and the future of fashion is up for grabs. These last few years haven’t been very creative for us youth, fashion wise, and it seems unlikely that we’re going to invent anything new anytime soon. Chances are we’re going to look to the past for inspiration. Maybe our priorities will change from trying to look rebellious and unusual to trying to look clean-cut and respectable. The 40s or 50s fashion may be revived. Or perhaps we will look to other countries and cultures.

Through my love of alternative fashion and regular internet cruising, I came across “Lolita,” a Japanese fashion that looks set to be the next big thing.

So, what is it?

Lolita is a fashion/subculture that originated in Japan. Lolita is inspired by the fashions of Victorian women—and particularly children. It aims to imitate the look of porcelain dolls, and does so almost to perfection.

Lolita is a subset of Harajuko fashion. Harajuko is a district of Japan, famed for having some of the wildest clothes in the world. Everyday in Harajuko, you can spot Lolitas hanging around chatting, going for a coffee or having their pictures snapped by amused tourists.

Although Lolita is an obvious reference to Vladimir Nabokav’s famous novel about a man’s sexual obsession with an adolescent, it is not an overtly sexual fashion. The Lolita look is almost always worn by teenagers, and the emphasis is more on looking cute, sweet, elegant or beautiful—not sexy. In fact, most Lolitas have likely never heard of the novel for which their style is named. That name was most likely contrived by the fashion industry, not by the Lolitas themselves. In fact, many women see Lolita as a way of recapturing the appearance and feeling of childhood youth and innocence.

Lolita first appeared in the 1960s and 1970s, though it did not gain popularity until the late 90s and early 00s. Many consider Lolita to be an offshoot of the highly-visual kei bands, the dominant music scene in Japan. Although the musical style can vary greatly from one band to the next, all have a penchant for dressing dramatically, often as though they are characters in a play. The dominant influence on the creation and popularization of Lolita was cross-dresser Mana, of the band Malice Mizer (pronounced Marisu Miseru), who even has his own Lolita clothing brand.


What The Hell Are These Clothes?

There are many different categories and subgroups of Lolita, and all add a different element to the style. There are gothic Lolitas who combine goth and Lolita fashion, punk Lolitas who sport safety pins and weird piercings, etc, etc. The world of Lolita is varied.

If you want to dress Lolita, the trick is very much the same as with any fashion. Make it your own, and don’t get caught up in norms and terminology. The trick to being a successful Lolita is being a creative Lolita.

Lolita’s tend to wear . . .


Skirts, typically knee length and worn with a petticoat to add volume.


Knee-length socks, over knee socks or stockings.


Frills and other charms are often added to the top of socks.


Footwear usually consists of shoes or boots with high heels or traditional children’s shoes. Platforms like Mary Jane’s are also popular, or sometimes combat boots among the punkier types.


Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed Victorian blouses, skirts and dress.


Skirts or blouses with Peter Pan or sailor’s collars.


Lace trimmed bonnets are very popular.


Intricate old-fashioned jewellery. Piercings may be worn, depending on your style and pain threshold.


Hair is usually black or blond, and curled to complete the porcelain doll look.


Make up is used sparingly, although white foundation is often used, and sometimes red or black lipstick and eyeliner.


Lolita Culture

In Japan, Lolita fashion is thriving, but is not mainstream—much like goth and emo in the West. Outside of Japan, Lolita is growing in popularity, but is still considered a fringe fashion. Lolita has a significant number of disciples in other parts of Asia and in America, largely due to the popularization of anime.

The Gothic and Lolita Bible has played a key role in marketing and promoting the style outside of Japan. The magazine includes fashion tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalogue descriptions, decorating ideas and even recipes. Mana is affiliated with the publication, and is often featured in exclusive photo shoots.

The best place to acquire Lolita clothing is the Manu Young department store, in Shinjuko. Commercially, this is the heart of Lolita—the store has 3 floors devoted entirely to gothic and Lolita fashions.

Increasingly, labels like Moi-Meme-Moite Baby, The Stars Shine Bright, Metamorphose, Temps de File, and Closet Child are selling their clothing online, and many are shipping outside of Japan, making Lolita increasingly accessible to the non-Japanese public. Western Lolita boutiques are growing in popularity, one of the main brands being Apple Sugar.

And . . . that’s it, folks. Maybe Lolita will grow and take over the world, or maybe it’s too weird to even come close. Only you can decide. Have fun, be the best Lolita you can be—and please remember, do let the tourists take your photograph.